New cats should be gradually introduced to the resident cat to minimize this type of problem. This would mean keeping them separated and allowing interaction for a limited time each day gradually increasing the interaction time until they are comfortable with each other. having several litter boxes is also recommended, one for each cat, plus one additonal if possible. Then each cat can claim a box as his own.

Thank you for your interest in our product. The Anti-Stress Calming Collar works within hours of use. A collar lasts for about 3 months. If it is helping she may need to wear one always. A health issue could cause a change in behavior, it is suggested to check with your vet .

The first thing to do is get a good odor neutralizer such as Nature's Miracle and get the odor out of the couches as much as possible. You might have to get them professionally cleaned or replace the inner cushions if they're saturated and can't be neutralized.

Then, booby trap the couches. Use tin foil, double sided tape, a scat mat or those plastic carpet runners with the barbs on the bottom faced up on top of the couches. Place a litter box right near the couches.

As the cat starts to use the litter box for urination, little by little move the box a few inches at a time back to the area that is convenient for you and accessible for her.

You might also try a pheromone spray and/or an herbal calming formula. I'm assuming that your cat is spayed but if she's not, that might also help.

First please realize that often when a new pet is introduced, the resident pet goes through a phase where they are upset, suspicious, unfriendly, but this most often works itself out. In your case, because the new kitty is female, it is even more likely they will form a relationship.

To help them along, feed them near one another, but not together. Little by little, move their bowls closer together. You may also notice that when she is occupied, he will get closer and want to sniff her.

Play with him in her presence to show him that when she is around it's good for him!

The litter box provides a sense of security, which might make it attractive to your cat after a move. Try to keep her in her large cage at night, without the litter box in it, and spray inside the box to see if you can get her to like the box by itself.

You might want to try a calming spray with pheromones, and also perhaps an herbal calming remedy, both of which are available over the counter. It sounds like you’ve created a whole, safe environment for your visiting cat, which would be my first recommendation. Once the visiting cat is comfortable and secure in it’s own environment, the next step is to put it into a carrier and bring it into a common area. Leave it in there for about 10 minutes every day for two or three days, allowing the resident cat to walk around the carrier and possibly interact with the visiting cat. Then, put your resident cat in the carrier and leave it in the common area for about 10 minutes, allowing the visiting cat to freely roam in that area. This should help build tolerance and security. After you’ve done this for about 7 days, have the cats eat in the same room, keeping their bowls initially quite far apart. Then, little by little, bring the bowls closer together. See how this works and let me know your progress.

Kneading is a cute behavior to watch cats flex and extend their paws against a bedspread, the carpet, or a person, usually while stretching and purring. It's a very common behavior for cats, but no one has determined exactly why they do it. All sorts of theories exist. Some say that "kneading" cats were weaned from their mothers too early; some say they were weaned too late. Most likely it's just a habit some cats develop, like people that bite their nails or crack their knuckles. What theorists do know is that it's a sign that cats are comfortable, happy, and relaxed. So you can take it as a complement: it's your cat's way of saying that he's happy you're around!

If you've not done so already, have him thoroughly examined by your veterinarian to make sure he has no underlying problems causing him to urinate excessively. Many diseases or infections will cause excessive urination. If there are no medical problems, then the urination is likely a behavioral problem. Your cat may be marking his territory, or he may have some problem with the litter box you're using: the type, amount, or cleanliness of the litter; the location of the box, etc. Sudden changes or stress such as introducing a new cat or dog to the household, moving, or the addition of a new family member can cause a cat to stop using his litter box, as well. If your cat is not neutered, then it is highly recommend that that be done. How many litter boxes do you have? What kind of litter are you using? The litter box should be cleaned at least once daily. If you've recently changed litter brands, change back! Cats can be very particular about the kind of litter they use. If you haven't changed litter, try adding another box with a completely different type of litter in it. Most cats prefer scoopable (clumping), unscented litter in uncovered boxes. Stay away from litters with lots of fragrance. As an experiment, try putting three (at least) litter boxes in your house. Place them right at or near the exact spots where he's urinating inappropriately, and scoop all boxes daily. This is just one example of things you can try. If your cat is still urinating outside the box, consult with your veterinarian or a pet behaviorist. Another option is medical therapy. Discuss medications with your veterinarian. You may need to give your cat a pill once a day or once a week, depending on the medication. Some of the medications have side effects and some don't work very well. It really depends on the cat, and it may take some experimentation to solve the problem. Litter box problems can be very difficult to correct, especially if they have been going on for a while. In most cases, however, they CAN be solved; so don't give up too easily!

First, make sure that your kitten is healthy prior to introducing him to your older cat. Before bringing him home, take him to your veterinarian for a complete exam, including laboratory testing (your veterinarian may wish to do a leukemia test). It is best to introduce the kitten to your cat slowly ? don?t force them to interact. A gradual process of discovery and investigation is best. Bring the kitten into the house in a travel crate and let your older cat approach the crate and sniff, hiss and paw at it. Then reverse the situation by putting the older cat in the crate and let the kitten explore around the crate. When both cats appear comfortable, allow them to roam freely together under your direct supervision. You should expect some hesitation and hissing from either or both cats during their first encounter. Once they seem relatively calm, feed them together in the same general vicinity, but not right next to each other. Separate them after the feeding. As they become gradually calmer, allow them to spend progressively longer periods together each day until they seem to be completely comfortable. Make sure you have at least two litter boxes ? one for each cat. It may take a week or two for them to become comfortable, but they should gradually adapt to each other. Be patient. Some cats are less sociable toward others and less willing to share their territory. With time, most cats learn to accept others in the household. Consult your veterinarian for advice if your cats have not become accustomed to one another after a few weeks of interaction.

It sounds like you have a normal, inquisitive kitten. But chewing on electrical cords is quite dangerous. The good news is that he should start outgrowing this behavior soon. Have you tried putting something distasteful on the cords? Cayenne pepper spray or bitter apple spray can deter some cats from chewing. You can also cover the cords with paper towel tubing or PVC pipe. Your kitty should lose house privileges unless someone is home to supervise him. When you're not at home, put him in a room with no cords. Also, make sure that your kitten has plenty of appropriate toys to play with. One way you can make his toys go further is to put a few out for him to play with, and put the rest away. A few days later, hide the toys that were left out, and leave out some new toys that had been put away. Even old toys will look new to your cat after they've been hidden for a few days. With a bit of persistence, your kitten will start to leave the cords alone. If, in spite of all these precautions, you catch him chewing on the cords, chase him away with a squirt of water from a spray bottle. Don't yell at him or spank him; just calmly squirt him until he leaves the cords alone. Good luck with your kitten!